Michael Nadra

I’ve had my fair share of shonky review meals this year, so when invited to sample Michael Nadra’s wares, I was more than a little bit cynical. Located in the heartland of Chiswick, I have to confess I was fully prepared to be underwhelmed.

When we visited on a Thursday night, the place was softly abuzz with a table of tipsy suits and a few couples. By the time we came up for air it was packed to the rafters with a mix of locals and families. The service was impeccable  throughout without being overly imposing, and the muted décor of mahogany and cream lent a quiet confidence, without rendering the atmosphere too stuffy or uptight.

To start with, I opted for seared yellowfin tuna with soft shell crab tempura, king prawn dumpling and oriental salad. It was an absolute stunner of a dish – I found myself actually shocked at how good it was. The crunchy crustacean, juicy fat dumpling and karate kick of the salad combined to a beautiful holism of textures. Amuses of salmon tartare with croutons and duck magret with a sweet squash puree were also balanced with fantastic precision. Michael Nadra cooked with the likes of Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Wareing, Bruce Poole and Anthony Demetre, before hanging his name above the door of what was formerly “Fish Hook” – my fresh-off-the-boat main certainly belied the piscine origins of the restaurant. The very recently dead sea bass with buttered courgettes, saffron crab ravioli, basil and bisque sauce was ambrosial. Gentle hunks of ivory flesh concealed a tender pouch of sweet, crabby delight, made fresh with the herbal goodness of the marrow. The saffron and herb flecked bisque sauce was addictive and we dunked our branches of almond steamed broccoli in with gusto. My dining partner’s steak proved that Nadra has an equally deft hand with meat. The aged Hereford fillet bore a deep chestnut gloss, was cooked to perfection and came saturated with flavour. However, the accompanying triple cooked chips were definitely crying out for a good slug or two of Sarsons. Apple tarte tatin with cinnamon and Calvados ice cream carried echoes of cheddar in the pastry, which created a wickedly savoury twist, amplifying the nectar of the fruit.

This was easily my favourite restaurant meal of the year. They’re currently offering a six course lunch menu for £35 and dinner for £42 – with ingredients and cooking at this quality, I’d say this was quite the bargain.

Michael Nadra

6-8 Elliot Road

Chiswick

W4 1PE

020 8742 0766

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13 comments

  1. I also really enjoyed Michael Nadra but gosh – how far from me it is.

    (Is one of your pictures upside down…?)

  2. gastrogeek

    yep, but worth the trek – I’ll definitely be back
    (and errmm maybe…yes)

  3. The Janitor

    This looks absolutely Yum. I must check it out. Thanks for the recommendation.

  4. Looks fab. Reminds me of the food that Chris Horridge cooks. But without being psychopathically healthy. Which is a very good thing.

  5. Hilda

    Drooling !!!!!!!!!!!!

  6. All looks gorgeous, can’t wait to go for lunch on my next weekday off.

  7. Drew

    Ate here on Saturday… second time in 18 months (far too long between visits). The Fois Gras with Deepfried Quail (I think?!) Egg was a taste sensation. Suckling Pig main sent me back to the days of Smokey Bacon Monster Munch. Which in my mind is a Wonderful thing! and the balance of Salty Caramel with Gooey Chocolate and Wistful Vanilla combined in the Chocolate Fondant Dessert was for me the perfect finish to a meal.

    PS… Do not underestimate the wine list. We finished their last 2 bottles of the Morellino, a superbly tasty Blackcurrent Fruit Pastelle esque Italian. But the selection endless with quality.

    • gastrogeek

      ooh sounds fab. Especially the Monster Munch comparison! Really must go back and soon…I’ve definitely left it too long since I last went. Wine list sounds cracking and all

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