Duck Egg and Saffron Aioli

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I was sitting at the back of the 205 bus the other day when I came up with the idea of making my own aioli  using duck eggs instead of hen’s eggs for a richer result, perhaps with some saffron and lots of finely chopped tarragon. This all seemed fairly straightforward and like a good idea at the time.

All I can say is NEVER AGAIN.

I don’t own an electric whisk and my food processor is broken so I decided to use my trusty old hand whisk. I crushed a fat clove of garlic with some salt and added the egg yolks. It all started fairly promisingly, things were looking wobbly and pale and altogether pretty perfect. Then foolishly, I added what must have been two drops of oil instead of one and it was game over.

The wobbly became more like a grey, grainy cream that refused to transmogrify back into mayonnaise no matter how much I coaxed it. However, being a stubborn one I persisted, determined to whip everything back into shape. I proceeded to spend the next four hours whisking like a proper loser. That’s four hours of my life I will never get back.

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Eventually, after my right arm had gone completely numb and I realised I was muttering and swearing at the bowl under my breath I decided, reluctantly to admit defeat.

I thought about it a lot the next day. It really preyed on my mind. Determined not to be beaten I tried again, and again started off well, this time the wobbly phase was substantially prolonged. However, heady with success I got cocky with the oil again and once again ended up with a curdled grainy mess. At this point I had actually developed blisters on my hands so conceded that in the long run, perhaps mayo failure was better than losing the use of my right hand.

Gutted, I stirred in half a bottle of Hellman’s a pinch of saffron and chopped tarragon. And even then it was still pretty horrible and far too rich. Sometimes the supermarkets really do know best.

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9 Comments on “Duck Egg and Saffron Aioli”

  1. Dan says:

    Oh my God, Four hours! you must have one arm built like a Russian shot putter.
    That’s the problem with making any type of Mayo – expensive ingredients…..well, the Olive Oil is pretty expensive – means it HAS to work, and if it doesn’t….well….I don’t even want to think about it. I’ve made my own once, and it was a success – but I used the electric whisk attachment on my blender/chopper thing.
    Top marks for experimenting!

    • gastrogeek says:

      Yeah my arm is still killing me – am lying in the recovery position trying to block the whole thing out of my mind – boo hoo!

  2. Christine says:

    Mayonnaise can be rescued. Start off another egg yolk and more oil. When this looks promising, slowly add the curdled mixture, fingers crossed. My husband once started off with a 2 yolk mayonnaise, and ended up with 5 yolks and about 750 mls mixture!
    I’ve made it both with a hand whisk and a handheld mixer. The key seems to be add the oil very slowly at first. Good luck if you try again. The home made stuff tastes much better than Hellman’s.

    • gastrogeek says:

      Christine – thanks for the advice, you clearly have more patience than me! I will definitely try the adding the curdled mixture to a fresh yolk trick, maybe just not for a while. I need to let go and move on for now.

  3. neil says:

    Get a slave to do it next time. You know , like a real chef would.

  4. LOL. Do you even like duck eggs?
    I once ate an ostrich egg omelette in south Africa. Horrible. It was to hen eggs what breast milk is to cow milk. Sort of oily.

    • gastrogeek says:

      Uuurgh! That sounds pretty vile. I think that’s definitely it for my foray into “alternative” eggs, am definitely sticking to good old hens eggs from now on…


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